Fire-rated roller shutters are used widely in malls, buildings, and underground garages. How do you install one, especially a steel composite fire shutter or an inorganic twin-track twin-curtain premium fire shutter? RHidoor walks you through it.
Step 1: Install the guide rails
1. On both sides of the shutter, set the rail position. Drop a plumb line for the rail baseline and mark the bolt crosses for the rail connectors. The rail must extend at least 75 cm above the ceiling.
2. Use an impact drill on the wall column to make the expansion bolt holes for the connectors. Connector spacing must not exceed 600 mm; ends are 100 mm from the rail mouth.
3. Fit the rest of the connectors. Spot-weld connectors to rails, at least 5 spots per connector-rail pair.
Step 2: Install the shutter shaft
1. From the shaft center height in the drawing, mark the active support plate center on the column or wall, and mark the expansion bolt cross.
2. From the active support plate center, use a level plastic tube to find the matching passive support plate center and its expansion bolt cross.
3. Drill. Use an impact drill for the expansion holes, bit vertical to the column face. If a hole hits rebar and will not go, shift a bit, but do not hurt hold or look.
Step 3: Install the straight support plates
(1) Fit the active support plate (drive bracket pre-connected and welded to the plate). Use nut, spring washer, flat washer to tighten the expansion bolt through the plate hole. The plate face must be vertical to the shaft.
(2) Fit the passive plate the same way, but before tightening, run a level tube to check its center height matches the active plate. Level within 1/300 of the opening height. Adjust if off.
(3) The support plate carries the whole door weight. Some plates, though bolted, are not firm enough, so add a brace or stiffener, fixed and welded on site. On brick walls, use through-bolts.
Step 4: Install the shutter shaft
(1) Before fitting, set the hanger direction on the shaft, mount 4 to 6 curtain slats on the hanger and roll tight on the shaft, tie with wire.
(2) Lift the shaft. Safety first: a dedicated signaler, and check the A-frame, scaffold, and chain hoist. Fit the polished shaft with bearing and seat into the shaft end hole, align, then tighten the bearing bolt.
(3) After the shaft is on, move the drum left or right to adjust. Use a level and level tube to recheck shaft level. After adjust, fully weld the polished shaft to the shaft, and fix the polished shaft to the bearing with a set screw.
(4) When lifting the shaft, take care not to damage the slats rolled on it. Pad with wood when binding with steel rope.
Step 5: Install the curtain slats
1. Loosen a few slats on the roll, use a level tube and ruler to check the curtain unevenness is within 1/300 of the opening height. If tilted out of range, find the cause and adjust.
2. Use the shaft rotation to thread the slats, then fit the bottom beam. When fitting slats, watch the end caps. If you pre-thread the rest together, take care in moving and binding not to deform them.
4. Check the top arc bend of the rail fits, then lower the curtain and walk it to see if it catches.
Step 6: Install the control box, lock box, etc.
1. Mark the lock box and control box bolt crosses as required. Install them level and plumb, fix firmly.
2. Run conduit between lock box and control box. Screw both ends with special nuts. If the client wants, use copper joints. Conduit clamps are usually within 100 cm spacing.
3. Fit the control board and limit switch.
4. Connect the electric lines, switch lines, power lines, signal lines, etc. Follow the “Low-Voltage User Electrical Installation Code”. Wrap both ends of wires in the flexible metal tube with plastic or wax tube. Ground wire is two-color; make sure the ground is firmly fixed.
5. Power on, lower the curtain a third by button, roll the slats, set the upper and lower limits, then run it up and down a few times to check for smooth travel.