RHIDOOR Industrial Doors

Placing a fire-rated roller shutter is not random. Rules apply, as below:

Per building security and fire design, besides firewall settings, if there is no firewall between two fire zones, a fire shutter is required.
Common places: enclosed escape stairs to a corridor; enclosed elevator lobbies to anterooms and anterooms to corridors; check doors of cable shafts, garage door pipe shafts, smoke ducts, trash chutes, and other vertical shaft doors.
Per rules, buildings split into fire zones and control zones. Doors on firewalls and fire partition walls: when a firewall or fire door is hard to fit, use a fire shutter instead, with a water curtain for protection, and the rules require fire- and smoke-rated partition doors.
Per standards, the fire shutter should also have a backup power. With no main power, the backup works. Inside, a fuse device must be set; at a certain temperature, the inner metal piece melts.
Use of premium fire shutters: mainly for fast fire compartment formation, often in large spaces. As a visible fire divider, makers paint them in bright colors. This looks good when rolled up and, in a fire, the bright, penetrating color shows the escape path and buys time.
In placing fire shutters, beyond the fire divider role, when rolled up they must not disturb normal life.
In high-rises, picking and placing the premium fire shutter’s effective compartment is key to its real fire function. Balance normal life with effective compartment.
The total max floor area of fire shutters should not exceed the fire-zone area set by the building grade. When upper and lower openings have fire shutters or water curtains with a rating over 3.00h, the areas need not add up. Lobbies and passages linking a room to an atrium should have class-B fire doors or fire shutters with a rating over 3.00h.

Clearly, fire shutters give good compartment protection for life and property, but more is not always better. Placement needs scientific calc and design by usable floor area.

The fire-rated shutter control box controls up, down, and stop, with double-click auto-scroll. On smoke or heat sensor signals, program modes A, B, or C run one descent, mid-hold, and second descent. On a fire center signal, it auto-runs one descent, mid-hold, and second descent. In alarm, after the door reaches bottom, any of up/down/stop makes it rise. It outputs door-position signals (mid, upper, lower).

Notes for the control box:
1. For safety, the controller must be grounded.
2. Before the limit switch is set, with no one watching, the box must not be powered.
3. After the box runs for real, do a run check each month.
4. If a key command gets no action, first check for a missing phase, wrong phase order on the three-phase input, and if the stop key is on a normal-open contact.

Wiring:
1. A fire-rated shutter is mainly the curtain and the electric system. The electric system includes the control box, fuse, and fire motor. The curtain uses inorganic fire cloth, aluminum silicate fiber blanket, radiation shield cloth, and decorative cloth sewn with high-temp thread, clamped by galvanized steel strips on both sides for wind strength. The bottom box plate is galvanized steel, 0.8 mm, seamless. Seamless steel tube, derusted and anti-corroded outside. Rails are galvanized steel, 1.2 mm, made as split composites.
2. First read the terminal diagram to know each terminal’s role and wiring rule, then wire right. After confirming, use a 500V megger to test insulation. Power terminals to motor terminals to housing and between them must be at least 300 MΩ. Only if insulation passes may you power on for debug.
3. Power on and see if the “normal” light is on. If not (no control power), swap any two of the three input phases. Manually control up, down, stop, and set the travel switch. With no fire, press “up” and the shutter should descend; press “stop” and it should halt. On test, up/down may be reversed; just swap any two of the three motor wires. Then test if the limit for the run direction works (touch the micro switch by hand); if not, swap the limit wiring. Then set the travel switch so the shutter opens and closes in place.

Tech advances in every field make life and work easier, so electric roller shutters see more use. Users must care for the shutter to get the most from it and extend its life. Let’s look at the care points.

How to maintain an electric roller shutter:
The shutter is linked door slats driven by a motor unit in fixed tracks. It suits shop fronts, garages, factories, and homes, and helps where the opening is large, like garage doors, fire shutters, hangar doors, logistics warehouses.

a. In use, the operator should often check the manual switch and manual lift device, so the shutter does not fail or cause an accident in an emergency.
b. Keep the controller and voltage stable. Do not install in a very damp place. Do not open the remote at will. If you see wires tangled or knotted on the door, fix it. Watch for a blocked passage that stops the door; if odd sounds occur, stop the motor at once.
c. To avoid faults, check the up/down travel switch often, oil the travel controller, keep it running well. Manually control the shutter, check its run, and verify the up/down switch positions so the door stops in the right place. Guard against over-travel or reverse. In an emergency, stop and cut power.
d. Note: cleaning matters for smooth track run. Clean the track often, keep it clear inside. Oil the motor and drive chain often. Check the control box parts and switch box, tighten terminals and screws, clean dust off the box inside, its surface, and the buttons so a button does not stick and fail to rebound.

The maker tells you repair differs by type
Many think all roller shutters repair the same. They do not. Different types need different tricks and knowledge. Do not mix them up. The maker tells you how they differ.

Homes with garages usually have garage shutters, so repair is common and familiar. But many know nothing of shutter repair and must call the maker.

Manual roller shutter repair
a. Manual shutters still have a market. When the spring breaks or the spring link belt breaks, replace the spring sling.
b. Manual shutters often will not unlock or take the key. Just replace the lock.
c. If the shutter rolls up fine, the spring is likely fine; this is usually a deformed slat or a slat catch stuck in the guide. Repair the guide slot entrance.

Fire-rated roller shutter repair:
a. Check the power and fire control box; reset or replace if damaged.
b. If it will not open fully or close tight, re-set the travel switch, then check the door body.
c. If it runs one way, check the travel switch and wiring.
d. If the motor runs but the door does not, it is usually a slipped or stuck slat. Tighten hardware and adjust slat position.
e. If it reverses or opens when not closed tight, raise the load force.

High-speed roller shutter repair:
A high-speed shutter runs over 0.8 m/s, a fast lift barrier-free door. Its main trait is fast isolation to keep air dust-free. In repair, wire the forward/reverse and stop buttons in series, parallel the forward/reverse and start buttons and connect one end to the stop button; the other stop end connects to power. Run the shutter forward and reverse; the contactor’s normal-open auxiliary contacts parallel the matching start buttons.

Electric remote roller shutter repair:
This is fairly complex. The control system includes the button box, a CPU-based control board, the remote, and sensor-based detection circuits. It is specialized and technical, hard for most of us.
For electronic remote repair, use a pro. Know the model, cause, and symptom, then repair by the case for an accurate next step.

Some repair notes: the operator must not leave the post, and must watch the shutter’s open/close and execution. Never stand or walk under the door, in case the travel switch fails and causes an accident. Check if electric lines and devices are damaged; repair promptly to avoid trouble.

The high-speed roller shutter is the most used shutter in industry, logistics, and storage. It makes passage easy and lifts output in industry, logistics, food storage. When it will not start or loses power, what do you do? RHidoor tells you.

Why it will not start and how to fix:
After pressing open, if the industrial high-speed shutter does nothing, the causes vary. Check from these sides:
1. After pressing start, if the PVC high-speed shutter does not turn, cut power and check the lines for faults. If lines are fine, check the motor capacitor; replace a bad run capacitor. If the capacitor is fine, the overheat protection may have failed; replace it.
2. A stuck brake can also stop it. Just pull the chain by hand a few turns to recover. Also, the auto button limit switch normally-closed contact may be open; sand the contact or replace the limit switch.
3. Hardware can cause no start too: damaged, oxidized, or dirty relay coil needs a new relay or contact sanding. The bridge rectifier or electromagnetic coil can fail; a stuck brake stops the door. Replace the rectifier or coil.
4. If all the above check out, the last cause is too-long continuous run tripping thermal protection. Just wait 30 minutes for the motor to cool to room temp, then start. All back to normal.

How to open it with no power:
During use, the shutter may suddenly lose power. How to open it? First see if it has a backup supply. If yes, start it and the door opens easy. If not, go manual. See which type: crank or chain. Different methods.

a. Crank type: find the crank handle, use some force, go to the service hole and pull by hand. Slowly the door opens.
b. Chain type: pull the chain on the motor. Just pull hard; it takes a bit of time.

Note: RHidoor reminds buyers to pick an uninterruptible supply as backup, so blackouts are no worry. For any question, whether or not you bought from RHidoor, our engineers are a call away at +86 18938501256 (ruihua@rhidoor.com). We serve you with care.

Using an electric roller shutter, you will hit the awkward moment of a blackout now and then. If you knew how to pick one and the maker taught you how to use it, opening it in a blackout is easy. So RHidoor first tells you how to pick:

Does it support manual? Manual should be easy and quick. In a blackout, turn the clutch 90 degrees and push it open by hand.
It should not coast by inertia; it needs a two-sided auto-lock.
To smooth the run and add pull, we use 8-wheel front-and-back drive with linked-gear tech.
Check if the build is precise and well lubed. A good shutter dissipates heat well, uses all-gear drive with no chain and no belt, which extends the motor core life.
Use a mechanical external sensor to open or close from outside.
Use a dual-mode motor with a torsion spring, switchable, manual in a blackout.
Use a DC battery motor with an external battery.

While picking a good shutter to avoid blackouts, also do these three ahead:
a. At install, fit an uninterruptible supply like a backup battery.
b. When buying, pick a shutter with manual function, just in case.
c. If you happen to be inside during a blackout, use the supplied chain to pull the shutter up.

An electric roller gate is door slats linked in a chain, driven by a motor unit, turning around a shaft above the door in fixed tracks. It suits shop fronts, garages, malls, hospitals, factories, and homes. It helps where the opening is large and a ground door is hard to fit, like garage doors, mall fire shutters, and industrial storage.

Care and maintenance usually covers these points:
1. Above the shutter install site, have a reliable fire facility. When boxing or ceilinging the drum below, fit a removable cover plate. On the motor side, leave a 500×500 mm removable service hole for upkeep.
2. For all electric shutters, the travel direction must match the switch box. Especially on first power-up or after a phase swap, first use the manual device to place the curtain at half height, power on, and test until it matches the indicator. Otherwise you damage the limiter and cause reverse roll or over-travel, a real loss.
3. When operating, stand where you can see the shutter move, or accidents and damage happen.
4. Keep the curtain and motor away from acid or alkali solutions to avoid corrosion.
5. Check the running, sliding, and drive parts at least twice a year, and oil as needed, to keep the shutter working.
6. During open/close stop, the shutter should stop in place, not keep sliding. If it slides over 50 mm, check and repair the control electrics and brake until normal.
7. Curtain and rust-prone parts need regular anti-rust, paint, and care. No heavy or hard hits to the surface.
8. If the shutter shakes hard or makes odd sounds, stop and clear what blocks normal travel.
9. The bottom beam upper limit must stay over 200 mm from the bearing bracket bottom, so the brake does not over-travel.

With a remote roller shutter, the remote often gets lost or breaks. The remote is like a key, and you would not keep just one key, in case of loss or accident. A spare key for a normal lock is simple, but copying a shutter remote used to be hard. Now the maker shows you an easy way. Listen closely.

Lost remote, or one spare left and you fear someone found it and may use it: how to change frequency. A full-loss remote can be made on site; you can also copy remotes for automatic garage doors, shutter remotes, crystal folding doors; change codes, delete lost remotes to remove risk; repair main boards; adjust rebound force; repair hosts. The remote frequency need not change; repeat rate is very low. If you insist on changing frequency, you can.
Whether it is a garage shutter, shop crystal shutter, warehouse stainless shutter, or mall folding shutter, first confirm your remote type. Know the crystal frequency model and chip model. Note: an incompatible chip cannot be copied.
Clear code: to set a new key, press the two top buttons at once (ignore the symbols). When the light blinks without stop, release. Clear done. Note: the light must blink without stop; after clear, any single key press makes the light blink once then off.
Copy: hold the original remote in one hand and the copy remote in the other, close together. Press both open buttons at once. The copy remote’s light blinks fast, meaning copy done. Release, then copy the other three keys the same way.

We can even merge two remotes with different address codes (same frequency) into one self-learning remote. Note: the position of the original and learning remotes during learning can matter; some work best head-to-head, some back-to-back. Try a few times and pick the run with the longest range.

Recovery after a wrong move: if you accidentally cleared the self-learning remote’s address code, press the two lower D and A buttons together for about 2 seconds. The LED blinks 3 times then blinks fast, meaning the cleared code is restored.

RHidoor showed you how to pair a roller shutter remote fast. If it still fails, our repair techs are glad to help. Call +86 18938501256 (ruihua@rhidoor.com). We look forward to hearing from you.

Garage doors often hit small faults most people do not know how to fix. Here is how.

Drive will not start with manual switch or remote:
1. First check the drive has no power; check the manual switch or remote receiver board for open circuit.
2. Check if too many runs triggered motor thermal protection.
3. Check socket, plug, manual switch, fuse; check manual switch and remote receiver wiring.

Door will not close tight or open fully:
1. Re-set the travel switch to add travel; the manual switch should control the drive.
2. Remote will not pair, or remote system fault: follow the manual to pair, or replace the remote battery.

Door not closed tight or auto-reverses and stops midway:
1. Have a repair tech check the receiver control board. The open/close resistance may exceed the set load and tripped the obstacle sensor; or the link length is off; pull the clutch.
2. Check if the door body and torsion spring balance, if travel is free; raise the open/close load; adjust the link length when closed for one-way travel.

Travel switch damaged or its wire shorted:
Adjust the open/close load and check the travel switch and its wiring.

Obstacle in the photo-eye path:
1. Clear the obstacle in the photo-eye path; check travel switch and wiring. Remote range well under 10 m outside garage:
2. Garage shields strongly; battery low. Extend the antenna outside the garage; pull it out of the driver and straighten.

Door runs too loud:
Too-loud running means the battery must be replaced.

Door runs uneven:
1. The drive rod is not on the door center line, so the rails are not parallel.
2. Hinges and rollers need lube; tighten hardware; align the drive rod with the door center line; make the rails parallel.

Installing roller and fire-rated shutters must be done by a pro from the maker. Buying from a maker usually includes install and after-sales repair. RHidoor is one such full-service company. Watch these points during install.

Curtain slat install:
1. Linked steel fire slats should turn freely; swinging 90° should not drop them.
2. After assembly, steel fire slats should be straight, with no holes or gaps.
3. End baffles or anti-shift parts should be firm. During travel, shift between adjacent slats under 2 mm.
4. Inorganic fiber composite fire curtains should have wind hooks at both ends.
5. The inorganic fiber composite curtain should link to the shaft via fixings.

Rail install:
1. The depth the curtain embeds in the rail should meet the table. When rail spacing exceeds the table, each extra 1000 mm adds 10 mm embed depth per end, and the shutter should not deform after install.
2. Rail tops should be arc-shaped, long enough for normal travel.
3. Rail sliding faces should be smooth and straight. Slats or rollers should run steady and smooth, no bump or hit.
4. The two rails of a single-curtain shutter should be parallel; different curtains of a twin-curtain shutter should also be parallel. Parallel error under 5 mm.
5. Rail vertical error after install vs base under 1.5 mm/m, total under 20 mm.
6. The smoke seal should fit the curtain evenly and tightly; fit length at least 80% of rail length.
7. Rails should mount on the building structure via embedded bolts, welding, or expansion bolts. Firm, fixed points 600 to 1000 mm apart.

Bottom plate install:
1. The seat plate should be parallel to the ground, contact even. Link to slats or curtain firm.
2. The inorganic composite seat plate should let the curtain descend smoothly with proper sag.

Lintel install:
1. Lintel firm, fixed points 600 to 1000 mm apart.
2. The smoke seal in the lintel should fit the slat or curtain surface evenly and tightly; fit length at least 80% of lintel length; gaps in non-fit parts under 2 mm.

Drive unit:
1. Shaft and bracket plate should mount firmly on concrete or embedded steel.
2. Shaft deflection in use under 1/400 of shaft.

Shutter motor:
1. Install per the manual, firm and reliable.
2. The motor should have a manual chain and manual quick-release, placed for easy reach and clearly marked. Not locked, and made of non-combustible or hard-to-burn material.

Protection box:
1. Box size should match the opening width and rolled shutter size, and keep a gap from the cover when full, no clash.
2. Near the motor, leave a service opening.
3. Box fire rating should match the shutter.

Controller:
1. Controller and manual button box should mount on both inner and outer walls. If one side is unmanned, mount on one wall per design. Both should be easy to spot and marked with up, down, stop.
2. Controller and button box firm, bottom 1.3 to 1.5 m above floor.
3. Metal parts should have a ground point with a clear mark; the ground screw should not serve other fastening.

The thermal release device position should match the design and manual. Gaps between shutter, box, and floor, beam, wall, column should be sealed with fire-stop material. The seal’s fire rating should not be below the shutter’s.

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