The motor is the most expensive component on an electric rolling door. When the installation is done, check it properly before paying the installer.
Visual Check
The motor should be mounted securely on the drive plate. No loose bolts. The chain or belt between the motor and shaft should be tensioned properly — about 10 to 15mm of deflection when you press with moderate force. The motor housing shouldn't have any cracks or damage.
Power Check
Confirm the voltage matches the motor spec. Most residential and light commercial doors use 220V single-phase. Heavier doors use 380V three-phase. Wrong voltage will burn out the motor fast. Check that the circuit breaker is properly rated for the motor's full-load current, plus headroom for startup surge.
Operation Check
Run the door through at least five full open and close cycles. Listen. The motor should run with a smooth, steady hum. No grinding, no clicking, no screeching. If you hear irregular noise, stop and investigate. Could be a bearing issue, a misaligned chain, or debris in the mechanism.
Temperature Check
After the five cycles, feel the motor housing. It should be warm but not hot. Too hot to touch means there's a problem: overload, poor ventilation, wrong motor for the door weight, or a wiring issue. A motor with thermal protection will shut itself off. If it does, find the cause before resetting.
Limit Switch and Manual Override
The door should stop exactly at the set upper and lower positions — no overrunning into the end stops. Pull the manual chain or use the crank handle; the door should move with reasonable effort. Test all remotes from the expected operating distance. Finally, ask the installer to demonstrate the manual override procedure. Write down the motor model number for future reference.