RHIDOOR Industrial Doors

[Fire-rated roller shutter] Fault answers
A fire-rated roller shutter is an electric door among shutters that guards life and property in a fire. Faults can show up in use. Users may not know them. RHidoor, a maker that builds, installs, and repairs, answers them one by one.

Faults:
1. Noise when opening or closing: many think it is minor since the noise is weak. That view is wrong. First find where the noise comes from and why. It could be hardware, loose install, or a shifted curtain. Or no lube, so try some oil. If that fails, check the hardware; if still no, it is the shutter. Just re-align it so both sides are parallel. If noise stays, ask the maker’s repair tech.
2. Cannot open the shutter: one fault is the motor runs fine but the door will not open. Cause may be the shutter off the track on both sides, or a motor problem. Best to check the door or motor. If the shutter, replace it. If the motor, the issue is bigger; still best to go back to the original maker or a pro repair tech. Expertise matters.
3. Door will not close right: electric fire shutters not opening or closing fully is common. The shutter does not close right or open fully. Cause is wrong limit setting, or something blocking. If blocked, easy to fix: check and clear it. If the shutter itself, same as above: go to the original maker or a pro.

[Roller shutter] Inspect the motor this way after install
The motor is the most important part of a roller shutter. After buying and installing, check it by the steps below.

Inspect the motor’s looks:
1. The housing should be complete, with no missing corners, no clear cracks or deformation.
2. Coated surfaces should be smooth, with no clear bubbles, wrinkles, spots, or sags.
3. No flammable or combustible materials should be used in the motor parts.
4. The control device should suit the operator’s use.

Inspect the basic functions:
1. The rated output torque should match the design. The maker should supply a pass certificate.
2. The brake should be safe and reliable. Brake force must be at least 1.5 times the weighted output torque at rated value. Slide travel must not exceed 20 mm.
3. The motor should have a manual device, flexible and reliable, placed for easy reach. Using it to open or close the shutter, no slide or bump.
4. The motor should open and close electrically and let the shutter slide down steadily by its own weight. The electric and gravity speeds should meet 6.4.5. The arm force to start gravity descent should not exceed 70 N.
5. The motor should have auto limit devices. At upper and lower limits it stops by itself. Repeated positioning error under 20 mm.

Inspect the running performance:
1. Mechanical life: under rated torque with weight, cycles should not be under 2000 (one cycle: closed to fully open to fully closed).
2. Noise: no-load running noise under 65 dB.
3. Power: with AC voltage swing within +10% / -15% of rated, the motor should run normally.
4. Safety: insulation resistance of electric parts should be above 20 MΩ in normal air.
5. The live parts to housing should withstand 1760V, 50Hz for 1 min with no breakdown, surface arc, or sweep. After the test, specs should meet A.1.2.
6. Climate stability: the motor should pass the climate tests in table A.1. After, specs should meet A.1.2.

[Fire-rated roller shutter] Site requirements and wiring
RHidoor’s site requirements for installing fire-rated roller shutters:
(1) Passages and halls linking atria between buildings should have grade B fire doors or fire shutters, with a fire rating over 3.00h.
(2) Where two high-rises or adjacent single/multi-story civil buildings install fire shutters, the rating is at least class 2. When the adjacent higher exterior wall has a rating of at least 2.00h and has fire doors, windows, or shutters, the fire gap may shrink a bit but should stay over 4.00m.
(3) The fire elevator front door should use a grade B fire door or a fire shutter with a hold-open function.
(4) High-rises with corridors, open stairs, escalators, or other floor openings should treat the linked floors as a fire zone; the total allowed floor area must not exceed the 5.1.1 rule. When the upper and lower openings have fire shutters or water curtains with a rating over 3.00h, the areas need not add up.
(5) Fire louvers on escape routes should have open-close devices on both sides and support auto, manual, and mechanical control.

Wiring method:
There are two wiring setups. First, if no full descent is needed, just know the active and passive outputs of the control module and connect them to the full-descent terminals.
Second, for half-descent plus full-descent, the 8303 input-output module needs two control modules at the host (ask the host seller), and you must know the active and passive outputs.
The linked-control build uses a control module to connect the full-descent terminal to the DIP switch in the control cabinet, with half-descent plus full-descent dial codes.

[Fire-rated roller shutter] Acceptance and testing by these standards
RHidoor’s fire-rated roller shutters are already widely used, especially in large supermarkets, commercial towers, and underground garages. The performance is solid. Proper makers only install products that pass strict testing. So an installed fire-rated roller shutter must be accepted and tested by these points.

The shutter goes through the fire-door heating test per national standard GB12955-2008. If it meets all of the following, it counts as grade A. If it meets only some, it counts as grade B.

Standard test:
1. No harmful deformation, fall-off, or damage from the fire test on the door.
2. No flame through the solid unheated face, and no harmful cracks or holes.
3. In the heating test, no part of the sample bows or deflects more than half the leaf thickness.
4. In the heating test, no burning flame on the unheated face.
5. The highest temperature on the unheated face stays under 960 degrees.

Acceptance criteria:
1. Observe and check the product certificate and on-site acceptance record. Is the frame firmly installed? Does the position and opening direction match the design? Do the count, position, embed, and connection of the embedded iron parts match the design?
2. Check the basic items. Pass: closes tight, opens and closes freely, no deformation, no warp; soundproof door seals well, auto-close is quick. Good: closes tight, opens and closes freely, no block, no rebound, no deformation or warp; soundproof door seals well; fire door auto-close is quick.
3. Check the accessories. Pass: complete, firmly installed, correct position, opens and closes smoothly and fits use. Good: complete, firmly installed, correct and straight position, opens and closes smoothly, fits use and looks good.

The fire-rated roller shutter is now one of the most used fire products in daily life. Small problems can come up in use. Some you can fix yourself without calling the maker. RHidoor has gathered common faults for reference.

Shutter will not work:
First check the power. See if the shutter’s breaker has power. If not, check the power side. If it does, the control box power light should be solid green. If the light is off, check the transformer in the box (burnt?). If the light blinks green, the power may be missing a phase. If not missing a phase, the backup power board may be burnt; or both main and backup boards may be burnt.

Breaker will not stay on:
When closing, if the breaker will not push on, first check the backup board. Its output line resistance is about 300 ohms. If open or shorted, check if the motor brake is burnt, or if the backup board is burnt.

Buttons not responding:
Press stop first, then reset, then up/down.

All lights on the control box or button panel lit:
First check if a button wire is shorted or a button is stuck. If not, the chip on the main board may be bad. Replace the chip. Note the reverse fit (openings face each other).

Button only goes up or only down:
Check if the limit wire has come loose. If not, the main board may be bad.

Buttons not working, or any button sends it down:
First check if the row cable between main and backup boards is loose.

Add lock control:
Just series a ~1K resistor on pins 5 and 12 of the row cable.

Tell if a motor is good:
The three-phase resistance is measurable and balanced. Imbalance may mean a bad motor.

When the shutter alarms, let it auto-descend to the bottom, press nothing on the way, then go up.

[Roller shutter] Fast repair for a broken spring
Roller shutters are easy and quick to use, so they show up in many places, especially shops, industry, and garages. With age, the spring can break. When that happens, first cut the power, then find the cause and repair or replace it. If you have no repair experience, call +86 18938501256 (ruihua@rhidoor.com), RHidoor’s repair department. This spring is a standard hardware part, easy to source, but pick the right spec so it fits and works. The spring is a key part of the shutter. It stores energy and cushions big shocks during travel, keeping things stable and extending the unit’s life.

How to replace a broken roller shutter spring:
1. To fit a torsion spring, grab the spring shell firmly with both hands, facing you (from the front), pulling up. Keep a firm grip.
2. With the left hand gripping, use a wrench with the right to loosen the screw fixed to the door body. After removal, both hands slowly release the spring until it has no resistance. Repeat for each.
3. Then remove the screws on both sides of the manual beam, take it down to the floor, remove the manual shutter spring screw, fit the new spring the same way as the old one, fix the screws, and reassemble the beam as before.
4. Now tighten the spring, the key step (basically the reverse of how you took it off). Tighten to the ideal resistance, then secure the screw. Done.
5. For a steel-strip spring, first grab the torsion spring shell facing you (from the front), pulling up firmly. With the left hand gripping, remove the hook plate with the right (if the manual shutter spring is broken, just take the hook off).
6. Then pull the spring down and off. The steel strip should be at least 80 cm longer than the door body, ideally. Remove the old screws, fit the new manual shutter spring, tighten to best resistance, then hook the plate back.
7. In fact, steel-strip and torsion springs work on the same principle. A note on replacing: if a user suddenly cannot pull the shutter up, the safest plan is to call a technician for on-site repair to avoid needless loss. Do not get clever if you do not know how, or you risk your own safety. The spring force is large; even a technician can get hurt.

[Fire-rated roller shutter] Inspect by these points after install
Fire-rated roller shutters are used more and more. Once installed, check the quality by the steps below. RHidoor explains the key points in detail:

First, the shutter goes through the fire-door heating test by the relevant authority. If it meets all of the following, it counts as grade A. If it meets only some, it counts as grade B.

Fire-rated roller shutter test standards:
1. No harmful deformation, fall-off, or damage from the fire test.
2. No flame through the solid unheated face, and no harmful cracks or holes.
3. In the heating test, no part of the sample bows or deflects more than half the leaf thickness.
4. In the heating test, no burning flame on the unheated face.
5. The highest temperature on the unheated face stays under 960 degrees.

Appearance inspection standards:
1. Observe and check the product certificate and on-site acceptance record. Is the frame firmly installed? Does the position and opening direction match the design? Do the count, position, embed, and connection of the embedded iron parts match the design?
2. Check the basic items. Pass: closes tight, opens and closes freely, no deformation, no warp; soundproof door seals well, auto-close is quick. Good: closes tight, opens and closes freely, no block, no rebound, no deformation or warp; soundproof door seals well; fire door auto-close is quick.
3. Check the accessories. Pass: complete, firmly installed, correct position, opens and closes smoothly and fits use. Good: complete, firmly installed, correct and straight position, opens and closes smoothly, fits use and looks good.

These are the basic acceptance points. Fire-rated roller shutters are widely used with clear effect. If you need one installed, contact RHidoor. We supply quality shutters and install them on site. Call for advice.

Crystal electric roller shutter motor will not start:
1. Short circuit in the wire.
2. Faulty running capacitor.
3. Damaged bridge rectifier or electromagnetic coil, or stuck brake.
4. Limit switch normally-closed contact open.
5. Relay coil oxidized or already damaged, or contaminated.
6. Overheat protection failed.
7. Brake stuck.
8. Ran too long, thermal protection tripped.

Crystal electric roller shutter brake slip causes:
1. Brake pad soaked with oil.
2. Spring compression reduced.
3. Electromagnetic unit may be fitted wrong.

Crystal electric roller shutter manual chain will not pull:
1. Ring chain jammed in the cross slot.
2. Electromagnetic fasteners loose.

Crystal electric roller shutter gravity-drop failure causes:
1. Manual pull rod bent.
2. Too much gap between manual pull rod and washer.
3. Gearbox motor lube lost effect.

Crystal electric roller shutter loud noise causes:
1. Shutter motor rail resistance too high.
2. Mounting plate fasteners loose.
3. Chain or sprocket worn too much from long use.

Fire-rated roller shutters are used widely in malls, buildings, and underground garages. How do you install one, especially a steel composite fire shutter or an inorganic twin-track twin-curtain premium fire shutter? RHidoor walks you through it.

Step 1: Install the guide rails
1. On both sides of the shutter, set the rail position. Drop a plumb line for the rail baseline and mark the bolt crosses for the rail connectors. The rail must extend at least 75 cm above the ceiling.
2. Use an impact drill on the wall column to make the expansion bolt holes for the connectors. Connector spacing must not exceed 600 mm; ends are 100 mm from the rail mouth.
3. Fit the rest of the connectors. Spot-weld connectors to rails, at least 5 spots per connector-rail pair.

Step 2: Install the shutter shaft
1. From the shaft center height in the drawing, mark the active support plate center on the column or wall, and mark the expansion bolt cross.
2. From the active support plate center, use a level plastic tube to find the matching passive support plate center and its expansion bolt cross.
3. Drill. Use an impact drill for the expansion holes, bit vertical to the column face. If a hole hits rebar and will not go, shift a bit, but do not hurt hold or look.

Step 3: Install the straight support plates
(1) Fit the active support plate (drive bracket pre-connected and welded to the plate). Use nut, spring washer, flat washer to tighten the expansion bolt through the plate hole. The plate face must be vertical to the shaft.
(2) Fit the passive plate the same way, but before tightening, run a level tube to check its center height matches the active plate. Level within 1/300 of the opening height. Adjust if off.
(3) The support plate carries the whole door weight. Some plates, though bolted, are not firm enough, so add a brace or stiffener, fixed and welded on site. On brick walls, use through-bolts.

Step 4: Install the shutter shaft
(1) Before fitting, set the hanger direction on the shaft, mount 4 to 6 curtain slats on the hanger and roll tight on the shaft, tie with wire.
(2) Lift the shaft. Safety first: a dedicated signaler, and check the A-frame, scaffold, and chain hoist. Fit the polished shaft with bearing and seat into the shaft end hole, align, then tighten the bearing bolt.
(3) After the shaft is on, move the drum left or right to adjust. Use a level and level tube to recheck shaft level. After adjust, fully weld the polished shaft to the shaft, and fix the polished shaft to the bearing with a set screw.
(4) When lifting the shaft, take care not to damage the slats rolled on it. Pad with wood when binding with steel rope.

Step 5: Install the curtain slats
1. Loosen a few slats on the roll, use a level tube and ruler to check the curtain unevenness is within 1/300 of the opening height. If tilted out of range, find the cause and adjust.
2. Use the shaft rotation to thread the slats, then fit the bottom beam. When fitting slats, watch the end caps. If you pre-thread the rest together, take care in moving and binding not to deform them.
4. Check the top arc bend of the rail fits, then lower the curtain and walk it to see if it catches.

Step 6: Install the control box, lock box, etc.
1. Mark the lock box and control box bolt crosses as required. Install them level and plumb, fix firmly.
2. Run conduit between lock box and control box. Screw both ends with special nuts. If the client wants, use copper joints. Conduit clamps are usually within 100 cm spacing.
3. Fit the control board and limit switch.
4. Connect the electric lines, switch lines, power lines, signal lines, etc. Follow the “Low-Voltage User Electrical Installation Code”. Wrap both ends of wires in the flexible metal tube with plastic or wax tube. Ground wire is two-color; make sure the ground is firmly fixed.
5. Power on, lower the curtain a third by button, roll the slats, set the upper and lower limits, then run it up and down a few times to check for smooth travel.

An electric roller shutter gate is usually the electric door of a shop or mall. It is a series of jointed doors linked in a chain, rotating around a fixed shaft above the door. So how do you install it? The pro installers at RHidoor share their method.

First, an RHidoor engineer visits at the agreed time to survey the site for free, confirm the size, install method, and your requirements, then build a quality roller gate so you use it happily and with peace of mind.
RHidoor’s delivery team brings the gate and a pro installer to the site. Before work, ready the tools: welder, electric hammer, hand drill, ladder, drill bits, cutting head, level, screwdrivers, and accessories.
Based on the site, mark a line 50 cm above the side-plate opening. Use a level to mark a vertical line 13 cm from the opening, then a vertical line 9 cm from the auxiliary plate on the frame. Fix the side plate on the vertical line, and mark a horizontal line at its highest point.
Test the handle. Fix the motor to the main board, link the wheel to the motor base with a chain, and connect the remote box to the motor. Check if the handle is reversed; if the remote receiver is upside down, pull the built-in black button.
Weld the electric roller shutter firmly. After setting the right size, weld it solidly to the shaft so the drill can bore vertically and store. Check the power works. Pull the track into a saw-tooth shape, level the shutter, confirm the upper and lower lines are right, then raise it with the screw.
Check and test. After power on, pull the switch to do a lift demo, make sure no fault. Confirm the track is smooth and clean and the button does not bounce or fail.

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